Kathmandu & A Slumber Did My Spirit Seal

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The author is Vikram Seth and this extract is taken from his book 'Heaven Lake', which describes his journey from China to India via Tibet and Nepal.

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The two most sacred temples are Pashupatinath (sacred to Hindus) and Baudhnath stupa (sacred to Buddhists).

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'Febrile confusion' means hurried activity and complete chaos. This atmosphere is found at Pashupatinath temple, where priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, pigeons and dogs roam throug…

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There is a sign that proclaims 'Entrance for the Hindus only'. This is significant because it shows the religious exclusivity of the temple, and even saffron-clad Westerners struggle to get permission…

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At Baudhnath stupa, there is a sense of stillness and quietness, contrasting with the febrile confusion at Pashupatinath. It's described as 'a haven of quietness in the busy streets around' with no cr…

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The small shrine half protrudes from the stone platform. When it emerges fully, the goddess inside will escape, and the evil period of the Kaliyug will end on earth.

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He describes Kathmandu as 'vivid, mercenary, religious' - a city with contrasts, having small shrines along busy streets, fruit sellers, hawkers, shops selling both Western cosmetics and traditional N…

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He buys marzipan, corn-on-the-cob, love story comics, Reader's Digest, and drinks Coca Cola and orange drink. He describes this as indulging 'mindlessly' but feels 'much the better for it'.