Circulation of Ocean water, waves, tides & Ocean currents — Flashcards

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Ocean waves are rhythmic oscillations of the sea surface caused primarily by wind blowing over the water. The friction between wind and water surface creates ripples that grow into waves. These waves …

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The crest is the highest point of a wave, while the trough is the lowest point. The vertical distance between the crest and trough is known as the wave height. These features alternate as waves travel…

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Wavelength is the horizontal distance between two consecutive crests or two consecutive troughs of a wave. It represents the length of one complete wave cycle. Longer wavelengths usually indicate more…

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Wave height is the vertical distance between the crest (highest point) and the trough (lowest point) of a wave. It indicates the size and energy of the wave. Wind strength, duration, and fetch (distan…

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Wave period is the time it takes for one complete wave cycle to pass a fixed point, measured from crest to crest or trough to trough. It is usually expressed in seconds. Longer wave periods often indi…

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Wave frequency is the number of waves that pass a fixed point in one second. It is the reciprocal of the wave period. For example, if the wave period is 10 seconds, the frequency is 0.1 waves per seco…

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Most ocean waves are caused by wind. When wind blows across the surface of the ocean, it creates friction, transferring energy to the water and forming waves. The size of the waves depends on wind spe…

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Tsunamis are very long ocean waves caused by underwater disturbances such as earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides. Unlike wind-generated waves, tsunamis affect the entire water column and ca…