Ocean Water Movements — Flashcards

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Ocean water moves in three ways: waves, currents, and tides. Waves are oscillatory movements on the sea surface, currents are regular movements of water in a fairly defined direction, and tides are th…

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An ocean wave is an oscillatory movement in water, shown by the alternate rise and fall of the sea surface. The wave travels, but the water particles mainly move up and down and to and fro instead of …

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The crest is the upper part of a wave and the trough is the lower part. Wavelength is the distance between two consecutive crests or two consecutive troughs. Wave period is the time taken by two conse…

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Velocity of wave (C) = Wavelength (L) / Period (T). Here, C is the wave velocity, L is wavelength, and T is wave period.

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The size and force of waves depend on wind velocity, the duration of the wind, and fetch, which is the distance over which the wind can blow unhindered. Stronger winds, longer duration, and larger fet…

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Winds blowing at 160 km/hr for about 50 hours over a fetch of more than 1,600 km can produce waves of about 15 metres height. This shows how wind speed, time, and fetch together control wave size.

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Sea is an irregular and chaotic wave pattern formed by waves of different wavelengths moving in different directions. Swell is a more uniform wave pattern that forms after waves move away from the win…

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Catastrophic waves are sudden, violent, and temporary waves caused by earthquakes, volcanoes, or landslides in oceans. Seiches are stationary waves. Both are different from ordinary wind-generated wav…